Bodrum: a castle, windmills and quiet Aegean coves

3 days Turkey 4 min read

Bodrum is a whitewashed harbour town on a peninsula of the Aegean coast, built around a medieval castle on the site of ancient Halicarnassus, home of one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. It has a reputation for nightlife and yachts, but the old town is still a pleasant place of bougainvillea, narrow lanes and small squares, and the peninsula around it hides quiet fishing villages and bays.

Three days is enough to see the castle and the ruins, spend a day on a boat and explore one or two villages on the far side of the peninsula. Minibuses called dolmuş run from the central station to every village, so a car is optional.

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Top places to see

1
Bodrum Castle
Bodrum Castle was built by the Knights of St John in the fifteenth century using stones from the ruined Mausoleum. It occupies a rocky point between the two harbours and houses the Museum of Underwater Archaeology, with shipwreck cargoes, Bronze Age glass ingots and a reconstructed ship. The towers give views over the whole bay. Allow two to three hours and go early before the heat builds on the ramparts.
2
Mausoleum at Halicarnassus
The Mausoleum was the tomb of King Mausolus, built around 350 BC and so grand that it gave its name to all later mausoleums. Earthquakes and the crusaders reduced it to foundations, but the site, a few streets inland from the harbour, has a small museum with models and fragments of the frieze. It is a quiet, quick visit that makes the castle walls make more sense afterwards.
3
Ancient Theatre of Halicarnassus
The ancient theatre sits on the hillside above the town, beside the main road, and dates from the fourth century BC. It held about 13,000 people and is still used for summer concerts. The best reason to visit is the view: the whole bay, the castle and the white town spread out below the stone seats. It is a steep 15 minute walk up from the centre, or a short taxi ride.
4
Bodrum Windmills
A row of stone windmills from the eighteenth century stands on the ridge between Bodrum and Gümbet. They are no longer working and some are partly ruined, but the ridge is the best sunset spot in town, looking west over Gümbet bay and east over the castle and harbour. The walk up from the town takes about 20 minutes and is unlit on the way down, so bring a phone torch.
5
Gümüşlük
Gümüşlük is a small fishing village on the western tip of the peninsula, built on the ruins of ancient Myndos. The harbour is lined with simple fish restaurants, and at low water you can wade across a submerged ancient causeway to Rabbit Island. There are no large hotels and the bay is calm for swimming. The dolmuş from Bodrum takes about 40 minutes.
6
Yalıkavak Marina
Yalıkavak on the north coast is the smartest village on the peninsula, with a large marina, designer shops and a long seafront. The old village behind it still has a weekly market and a working windmill. The beach is pebbly but the water is clear and the sunsets over the Greek islands are the main attraction. Even if the shops are not your thing, the evening promenade is lively.
7
Boat Trip to the Bays
Wooden gulet boats leave Bodrum harbour every morning for day trips around the bays, stopping to swim at Black Island, the Aquarium cove and Camel Beach. Lunch is usually cooked on board and included. The boats are the easiest way to reach water you cannot get to by road. Pick a boat the evening before, check how many stops it makes and bring your own towel and sun cream.
8
Bodrum Old Town and Bazaar
The old town is the grid of lanes behind the harbour, with whitewashed houses, blue shutters and a covered bazaar selling sandals, leather and textiles. The waterfront Cumhuriyet Street is the busy strip of bars; the quieter lanes behind it are more pleasant by day. The Friday market near the bus station is where locals shop and is good for fruit, cheese and local honey.

Good to know

Dolmuş minibuses leave from the central bus station to every village on the peninsula and run late into the evening in summer. Pay the driver in cash when you board.
Bodrum beaches in the town itself are small and busy. For real swimming, take a boat trip or head to Bitez, Ortakent or Gümüşlük on the dolmuş.
The town is very lively after dark in July and August, and Cumhuriyet Street is loud until late. Choose a room away from the waterfront if you want to sleep.
Ferries run from Bodrum to the Greek island of Kos in about an hour. Bring your passport and check the return time, as a day trip is possible but the last boat leaves early.

Best time to visit

Late May to June and September to early October are the best times, with sea temperatures warm enough to swim, long sunny days and fewer crowds than high summer. July and August are hot, busy and expensive, though the sea breeze helps. From November to March many restaurants and boats close, but the weather is mild and the castle and ruins are empty.

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