Izmir for first-timers: the Kordon, the bazaar and Ephesus nearby

3 days Turkey 4 min read

Izmir is the third largest city in Turkey and the most relaxed of the big three, a seaside place with a long waterfront promenade, an easygoing cafe culture and a history that goes back to ancient Smyrna. It is less visited than Istanbul, which means fewer crowds, and it makes an easy base for Ephesus, one of the great Roman cities of the ancient world.

Three days works well: one for the city itself, with the bazaar, the agora and the seafront, one for Ephesus and Şirince, and one for the elevator district, the castle hill and a slow evening in Alsancak. The metro, tram and ferries cover the centre.

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Top places to see

1
Kemeraltı Bazaar
Kemeraltı is a sprawling historic market that spreads over the streets between Konak Square and the ancient agora. It mixes spice stalls, fabric sellers, jewellers and old caravanserais with synagogues and Ottoman mosques tucked between the shops. The Kızlarağası Han, an eighteenth century caravanserai with a courtyard cafe, is the place to pause. Mornings are calmer; by afternoon it is packed with local shoppers.
2
Konak Square and Clock Tower
Konak Square is the centre of the city, marked by an ornate marble clock tower from 1901 that has become the symbol of Izmir. The small Yalı Mosque beside it is covered in blue tiles. The square connects the bazaar, the ferry pier and the start of the seafront, so you will cross it several times. Pigeons, pretzel sellers and the sea breeze make it a pleasant place to sit.
3
Agora of Smyrna
The Agora of Smyrna is the Roman marketplace of the ancient city, a few minutes uphill from Kemeraltı. The vaulted basement galleries that supported the basilica survive almost intact, with running water channels still visible, and a row of columns stands in the open square above. It is quiet and shaded, a good escape from the bazaar. Excavations continue, so new parts open every few years.
4
Kordon
The Kordon is the wide waterfront promenade that runs from Konak north to Alsancak, with lawns, bike lanes and cafes facing the bay. In the evening the whole city seems to come down to walk, cycle or sit on the grass watching the sunset over the hills across the water. Rent a bike from one of the automated stations or just walk the full length, which takes about 40 minutes.
5
Asansör
The Asansör is a historic elevator built in 1907 to carry residents up a steep cliff in the old Jewish quarter of Karataş. The tower still works, and the terrace at the top looks over the rooftops to the bay. The narrow street leading to it, Dario Moreno Street, is lined with restored houses and shaded by trees. It is a short walk or bus ride south of Konak.
6
Kadifekale
Kadifekale, the Velvet Castle, is the hilltop fortress said to have been founded by Alexander the Great. The walls are partly ruined but the view over the whole bay, the city and the surrounding hills is the best in Izmir. The neighbourhood around it is a working class district, so take a bus or taxi up rather than walking through the steep lanes after dark.
7
Ephesus
Ephesus, about an hour south of Izmir, is one of the most complete ancient cities anywhere, with the Library of Celsus facade, a 25,000 seat theatre and marble streets rutted by cart wheels. The Terrace Houses, with mosaic floors and painted walls, need a separate ticket and are worth it. Trains and buses run to Selçuk; arrive at opening time in summer to beat the heat and the cruise groups.
8
Şirince
Şirince is a hillside village of stone and timber houses above Selçuk, once Greek and now known for its fruit wines, olive oil and handicrafts. It is small enough to see in a couple of hours, with narrow lanes, two old churches and views over the vineyards and orchards. Minibuses run from Selçuk, so it combines naturally with Ephesus. Weekdays are quieter than weekends when Izmir day-trippers arrive.

Good to know

An İzmirim Kart from a kiosk works on the metro, tram, buses and the cross-bay ferries. The ferry from Konak to Karşıyaka is a cheap way to see the city from the water.
For Ephesus, take the regional train from Basmane or Alsancak station to Selçuk and a minibus or taxi from there. Leave early; the site has little shade by midday.
Alsancak is the main evening district, with pedestrian streets of bars and restaurants behind the Kordon. It is safe and busy late, and the metro and tram run until around midnight.
Izmir gets a strong afternoon sea breeze called the imbat in summer, which makes the heat bearable but can be gusty on the seafront. A light jacket helps in the evening even in June.

Best time to visit

April to June and September to October are the most comfortable, with warm sunny days in the 20s and cool evenings on the seafront. July and August are hot, above 35 degrees inland, and Ephesus is uncomfortable after midday. Winters are mild and rainy, usually above 10 degrees, and the city carries on as normal with far fewer tourists.

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