Fethiye: Ölüdeniz, rock tombs and the Lycian coast

3 days Turkey 4 min read

Fethiye is a working harbour town on the Turquoise Coast, sitting between pine-covered mountains and a wide bay scattered with islands. Lycian rock tombs are carved into the cliff above the market streets, and a few kilometres over the hill is Ölüdeniz, the lagoon and beach that appears on most postcards of Turkey. It is a place for swimming, boats, walking and a few ancient ruins.

Three days is enough to see Ölüdeniz, take a boat to the bays, walk through the abandoned village of Kayaköy and visit a gorge or ancient city in the valley behind. Minibuses connect everything, and the town itself is small enough to walk.

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Top places to see

1
Ölüdeniz
Ölüdeniz is a sheltered lagoon of pale turquoise water separated from the open sea by a sand spit, backed by the steep slopes of Babadağ mountain. The lagoon itself is a protected nature park with a small entry fee, and the beach outside it is free. The water is calm and shallow, good for families. Minibuses run from Fethiye every few minutes in summer; mornings are quieter before the day-trippers arrive.
2
Babadağ Paragliding
Babadağ rises almost 2000 metres straight out of the sea behind Ölüdeniz and is one of the best paragliding sites in the world. Tandem flights with a licensed pilot take off from the summit, reached by cable car or minibus, and glide for about half an hour down to the beach. Even if you do not fly, the cable car to the top gives a view of the whole coast and islands.
3
Butterfly Valley
Butterfly Valley is a narrow canyon that opens onto a small beach south of Ölüdeniz, named for the Jersey tiger moths that gather there in summer. It can only be reached by boat from Ölüdeniz or by a steep rope-assisted trail from the village of Faralya above. A short walk inland leads to a waterfall. Boats leave Ölüdeniz beach through the morning and return mid afternoon.
4
Lycian Rock Tombs
The Lycian rock tombs are carved into the cliff directly above Fethiye town, the largest being the Tomb of Amyntas from the fourth century BC, shaped like a temple facade. A flight of steps from the Kaya road leads up to it. The view over the harbour and bay at sunset is the real reward. Smaller tombs and sarcophagi are scattered through the streets below, some beside car parks.
5
Kayaköy
Kayaköy is a hillside village of several hundred roofless stone houses, abandoned after the Greek population left in the 1923 population exchange. Two churches and the chapel at the top still stand, and the lanes between the empty houses are open to walk. It is quiet and moving, especially in the late afternoon. A marked trail leads over the hill from Kayaköy to Ölüdeniz in about two hours.
6
Saklıkent Gorge
Saklıkent is an 18 kilometre canyon cut into the mountains about 50 kilometres from Fethiye, so narrow in places that the sun never reaches the floor. A wooden walkway leads into the first section, after which you wade through cold, fast water between the walls. Water shoes can be rented at the entrance. It is at its best in the heat of summer and easy to reach by minibus or day tour.
7
Fethiye Fish Market
The fish market in the centre of Fethiye is a small covered square where fishmongers sell the morning catch and the restaurants around the edge will cook whatever you buy for a small charge. It is as much a social scene as a market, best in the evening. The larger Tuesday market along the canal is the place for fruit, spices, textiles and village cheese.
8
Tlos
Tlos is one of the oldest Lycian cities, on a rocky hill above the Xanthos valley about 35 kilometres from Fethiye. Rock tombs, a Roman theatre, a stadium and an Ottoman fortress on the acropolis stand together with the mountains behind. It gets a fraction of the visitors of coastal sites. Combine it with Saklıkent Gorge, which is nearby, for a good day out of town.

Good to know

Minibuses from the Fethiye station run to Ölüdeniz, Kayaköy, Çalış and Saklıkent. They are cheap and frequent in summer but thin out after dark, so check the last departure.
Paragliding depends on wind and can be postponed. Book for your first day and choose a company with licensed pilots and recent equipment; ask to see the certification.
The 12 Islands boat trip from Fethiye harbour is a relaxed way to swim in bays you cannot reach by road. Smaller boats are quieter and stop longer; larger ones have music.
The Lycian Way long-distance trail starts just above Ölüdeniz. Even a short section to Kayaköy or Faralya is worth it, but carry water and start early in summer.

Best time to visit

May, June, September and October are ideal, with sunny days around 25 to 30 degrees, a warm sea and lighter crowds. July and August are very hot and Ölüdeniz is packed, though the gorge and boat trips are at their best. Winter is mild and wet, with many beach businesses closed, but the ruins, Kayaköy and the Lycian Way are perfect for walking.

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