Lisbon on foot: hills, trams and viewpoints
Lisbon is built on hills above a wide river that looks like the sea, and almost every walk ends at a viewpoint. The city mixes tiled facades, rattling yellow trams, grand squares rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake and riverside districts that have found new life in old warehouses. Three days covers the historic core, the monuments of Belém and one day out to the palaces of Sintra.
Distances are short but the hills are real, so plan each day around one area: Alfama and the castle, then Belém along the river, then the Bairro Alto and Chiado side of the centre. Comfortable shoes with grip matter more here than anywhere, since the pavements are polished limestone.
Mira builds a day-by-day route with these places on a real map. You can change every stop.
Top places to see
- 1
Alfama
The oldest district, a tangle of stairways and alleys below the castle that survived the earthquake, with laundry strung between houses, tiny squares and fado music drifting from doorways at night. It is a place to wander rather than navigate. Start at the Miradouro de Santa Luzia or the Portas do Sol viewpoint for the river panorama, then let the lanes lead you down towards the cathedral.
- 2
São Jorge Castle
The Moorish fortress on the highest hill in the centre, with walls you can walk along, peacocks in the gardens and the widest view over the rooftops, the river and the 25 de Abril bridge. The ruins themselves are modest; the location is the point. Buy a ticket online to skip the queue, go late afternoon for softer light, and take the 737 bus up if you want to save your legs for the way down.
- 3
Jerónimos Monastery
The great monument of Portugal's Age of Discovery, built with the profits of the spice trade in the elaborate Manueline style of carved stone ropes, sea creatures and coral. The two-storey cloister is the highlight and worth the ticket; the church, where Vasco da Gama is buried, is free. It is in Belém, a short tram or train ride west of the centre. Arrive at opening time, because queues grow fast.
- 4
Belém Tower
A small fortified tower standing in the river, built to guard the harbour entrance in the early sixteenth century, and the symbol of the city on countless postcards. The interior is cramped and the queue to climb can be long, so many visitors are content to walk the waterfront around it. From here the riverside path leads east past the Monument to the Discoveries back towards the monastery.
- 5
Tram 28
The classic yellow tram runs a winding route from Martim Moniz through Graça, Alfama, the Baixa and up to Estrela, squeezing through streets barely wider than the carriage. It is as much a ride as transport. Board at the first stop early in the morning to get a seat; by mid-day the queue is long and the tram is packed. The route passes close to most of the viewpoints and the Sé cathedral.
- 6
Time Out Market
The old Mercado da Ribeira near Cais do Sodré station, half of which is still a traditional fruit, fish and flower market in the mornings, while the other half holds a large food hall with counters from well-known city chefs and long shared tables. It is crowded at lunch and dinner, so try mid-afternoon. It sits a short walk from the riverside promenade and the Pink Street nightlife.
- 7
LX Factory
A former industrial complex under the 25 de Abril bridge, turned into a lively quarter of studios, bookshops, street art, cafés and weekend markets. The Ler Devagar bookshop, built around old printing presses, is the best-known stop. It is on the way between the centre and Belém, reached by tram 15 or the Alcântara train stop, and is liveliest on Sunday when the market runs.
- 8
Sintra
A forested hill town forty minutes by train from Rossio station, with a cluster of palaces: the colourful Pena Palace on the summit, the Moorish castle walls beside it, and Quinta da Regaleira with its spiral initiation well in the town below. Take the first train, book Pena online for an early slot, and use the 434 bus or walk the forest trail up. One palace plus the gardens fills a day.
Photos: Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons
On the map
Good to know
Buy a Viva Viagem card at any metro station and load it with zapping credit, which works on the metro, trams, buses, the Belém trains and the Sintra line at a lower fare than paper tickets.
Tram 28 and the Santa Justa lift attract pickpockets; keep valuables close in any crowded carriage. The lift itself is slow and pricey, and the same view is free from the terrace of the Carmo convent next to it.
The limestone pavements become slippery in rain, and many streets are steep stairways. Wear shoes with grip, and remember that the funiculars and the Elevador da Glória are covered by the transport card.
Many museums and the castle are busiest from ten to two. Visit Belém first thing, have a pastel de nata there, and keep the hilltop viewpoints for the hour before sunset when the light turns gold.
Best time to visit
Spring and autumn are the sweet spot: March to May and late September to November bring 17 to 24 degrees, clear skies and lighter crowds. Summers are hot and dry, usually bearable thanks to the Atlantic breeze, but Belém and Sintra queues peak in July and August. Winter is mild at around 15 degrees with the year's most rain, and still pleasant for city walking.
Ready-made plans for Lisbon
Get a day-by-day plan for Lisbon with routes, places to eat and stay, weather and a packing list.