Marrakech: souks, palaces and gardens of the Red City

3 days Morocco 4 min read

Marrakech is built around its medina, a walled old city where narrow lanes lead to palaces, tanneries, mosques and market streets that have traded for a thousand years. The red walls, the call to prayer, the smell of spices and leather, and the snow capped Atlas Mountains on the horizon make it unlike anywhere in Europe, though it is only a short flight away.

Three days is enough to get lost in the souks, see the main palaces and gardens, and take a day trip into the mountains or to the coast. The city is intense at first, so give yourself time in the gardens and on the riad rooftops to balance the noise of the medina.

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Top places to see

1
Jemaa el-Fnaa
The great square at the heart of the medina changes through the day: juice stalls and snake charmers in the morning, storytellers and musicians in the afternoon, and dozens of smoking food stalls after dark. Watch the transformation from a rooftop cafe at sunset, then walk through. Agree on a price before taking photos of performers, and keep valuables close in the crowd.
2
Marrakech Souks
North of the square, the market lanes are grouped by trade: leather, lanterns, carpets, spices, slippers and metalwork. Getting lost is part of the experience, and the main artery Souk Semmarine eventually leads back to the square. Bargaining is expected and friendly, starting well below the first price. Mornings are calmer and shopkeepers are more relaxed before the afternoon rush.
3
Bahia Palace
A nineteenth century palace built for a grand vizier, with painted cedar ceilings, zellige tilework and a series of courtyards and gardens. It gives the best sense of Moroccan decorative craft in the city. Arrive at opening, because tour groups fill the small rooms by mid morning. The palace is in the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, which is worth a walk afterwards.
4
Jardin Majorelle
The cobalt blue garden created by painter Jacques Majorelle and later owned by Yves Saint Laurent, in the new town of Gueliz. Cacti, bamboo, lily ponds and the vivid blue villa make it the most photographed spot in Marrakech. Tickets are timed and sell out, so book online several days ahead and go first thing. The Berber Museum inside is small but excellent.
5
Koutoubia Mosque
The twelfth century minaret, 77 metres tall, is the landmark of the city and the model for the Giralda in Seville. Non Muslims cannot enter the mosque, but the gardens around it are open and give the best view of the tower, especially lit up in the evening. It stands just west of Jemaa el-Fnaa and makes a useful reference point when the medina lanes confuse you.
6
Saadian Tombs
The burial place of the Saadian dynasty, sealed off in the seventeenth century and rediscovered in 1917. The Chamber of the Twelve Columns, in Italian marble with intricate stucco and tilework, is the highlight. The entrance is through a narrow passage beside the Kasbah Mosque. The site is small and the queue for the main chamber moves slowly, so come early.
7
Le Jardin Secret
A restored riad garden in the middle of the medina, with an Islamic garden laid out on traditional lines and an exotic garden, fed by the ancient khettara water channels. It is a calm stop between souks, and the tower gives a view over the rooftops to the Atlas. The exhibition on the water system explains how the city was built in a semi desert.
8
Atlas Mountains
The High Atlas begin an hour south of the city. A day trip to the Ourika Valley or to Imlil, the base village below Mount Toubkal, offers Berber villages, walnut groves, waterfalls and short guided hikes. Shared taxis and organised tours both work. Take warm layers even in summer, because the valleys are much cooler than the plain, and start early to avoid the afternoon heat.

Good to know

Dress modestly in the medina, with shoulders and knees covered, especially for women. This is less about rules than about comfort and the way people respond to you in the lanes and markets.
Carry small cash in dirhams for taxis, market purchases and tips. Petit taxis are cheap but insist on the meter or agree a fare before getting in, and note that the medina itself is mostly walkable.
Politely refuse unsolicited guides who offer to show you the way or claim a street is closed. Use the minaret of the Koutoubia and offline maps to navigate, and ask shopkeepers rather than people loitering.
Stay in a riad inside the medina for at least one night. The courtyards and rooftops are the quiet side of the city, and breakfast on the roof with the Atlas in view is one of the best moments of a trip.

Best time to visit

March to May and late September to November are ideal, with warm sunny days and cool nights. Summer temperatures regularly pass 40 degrees, which makes the medina hard going in the afternoon. Winter days are mild and bright but evenings are cold and riads can be chilly, so pack layers if you come between December and February.

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