Dubai: from the old creek to the tallest tower

3 days United Arab Emirates 4 min read

Dubai is two cities in one. Along the Creek is the old trading town of wind tower houses, abras and gold and spice souks, while a few kilometres south rise the towers of Downtown, the Marina and the Palm. The contrast is the point, and seeing both sides in a short visit gives a much fuller picture than the skyline alone.

Three days works well: one for the old town and Creek, one for Downtown and the Burj Khalifa, and one for the beach and the desert. Distances are long and walking between areas is rarely practical, so the Metro and taxis do the connecting.

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Top places to see

1
Burj Khalifa
The tallest building in the world at 828 metres. The observation decks on the 124th and 148th floors look over the city, the desert and the Gulf, and on clear days the view is extraordinary. Book a timed ticket online well in advance, and choose the hour before sunset so you see the city in daylight, at dusk and lit up. The entrance is inside the Dubai Mall.
2
Dubai Creek
The saltwater inlet where the city began. Cross it on an abra, the wooden water taxi, from Bur Dubai to Deira for a few coins, with the wind tower houses on one side and dhows loading cargo on the other. Evening is the best time, when the light softens and the souks on both banks come alive. A longer dhow cruise is an easy way to see the skyline from the water.
3
Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood
A restored quarter of coral stone houses, narrow lanes and wind towers near the Creek, with small museums, galleries and courtyard cafes. The Dubai Museum in the Al Fahidi Fort nearby covers the pearl diving past. The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding here offers meals and talks about Emirati customs where any question is welcome. Mornings are quiet and shaded.
4
Gold Souk and Spice Souk
Across the Creek in Deira, the covered Gold Souk displays windows of bracelets and necklaces by weight, and the Spice Souk next to it sells saffron, dried limes, frankincense and dates. Gold is priced by the day's rate plus workmanship, so bargaining is on the craftsmanship. Browse without obligation, and visit after dark when the lanes are busiest and coolest.
5
Dubai Mall and Dubai Fountain
One of the largest malls anywhere, with an aquarium, an ice rink and hundreds of shops, but the real draw is outside: the Dubai Fountain performs on the lake below the Burj Khalifa every half hour in the evening, with jets reaching 150 metres. Find a spot on the waterfront promenade or the bridge to Souk Al Bahar twenty minutes before a show.
6
Jumeirah Beach
The long public beach along Jumeirah Road has soft sand, calm warm water and a view of the Burj Al Arab. Kite Beach further along has a running track, cafes and watersports. Facilities are good and lifeguards are present. Swim early or late in summer, when the midday sun and sea temperature are both extreme, and in winter the beach is pleasant all day.
7
Dubai Desert
The dunes begin half an hour from the towers. An afternoon desert safari combines dune driving, a camel ride, sandboarding and sunset, usually finishing with dinner at a camp. Choose a conservation reserve tour for gentler driving and wildlife such as oryx and gazelle. Take a light jacket in winter, since the desert cools quickly once the sun sets.
8
Dubai Marina
A canal lined with skyscrapers, yachts and a long promenade, with The Walk at JBR and its beach at the end. It is at its best after sunset, when the towers are lit and the walkway fills with people. The Ain Dubai observation wheel is on Bluewaters Island nearby. The Metro and tram both stop here, and a dinner cruise or a kayak on the marina are easy additions.

Good to know

Buy a Nol card for the Metro, trams and buses. The Red Line links the airport, the Creek, Downtown and the Marina, and the Gold Class and women and children carriages are marked on the platform.
Dress is relaxed at beaches and hotels, but cover shoulders and knees in malls, the old town, mosques and government buildings. Public displays of affection are frowned upon and alcohol is only served in licensed venues.
Walking between districts is rarely possible, especially in summer heat. Taxis are metered and reasonable, and ride hailing apps work, so plan each day around one area and move by Metro or car.
Friday is the main day of rest, with later openings and family crowds in the afternoon. Souks and museums can be quieter on Friday mornings, and the fountain and malls busiest on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Best time to visit

November to March is the time to visit, with sunny days around 25 degrees and cool evenings that make beaches, the desert and walking the Creek pleasant. April and October are hot but manageable. From May to September temperatures exceed 40 degrees with high humidity and life moves indoors, though hotel rates drop.

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